Fly Reels
How to Choose a Fly Reel
Five decisions, and the first one is whether you need a new reel at all. Usually you do not.
Most fly reel buying guides skip the first question, which is the most important one: do you need a reel? On a trout rod the reel is mostly line storage, and it is the last component on a beginner combo worth replacing.
The short list
| # | Pick | Best for | Score | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Orvis Clearwater Large Arbor Reel II3.4" · 3-5 wt · 5.6 ozBest Overall | Where this decision tree lands for a trout beginner | 8.6 | Check price on Amazon |
| 2 | Piscifun Sword Fly ReelCNC aluminum · mid arborBest Under $150 | The budget answer, with machined construction | 7.9 | Check price on Amazon |
| 3 | Redington Behemoth Fly Reel4/5 · 5/6 · 7/8 · 9/10 · 11/12Best Upgrade Pick | If you are planning two rods ahead | 8.4 | Check price on Amazon |
| 4 | Scientific Anglers Frequency TroutWF5F · 85 ft · 140 grBest Value | What to buy instead, if the reel still works | 8.7 | Check price on Amazon |

1. Best Overall
Orvis Clearwater Large Arbor Reel II
A sealed-drag large-arbor reel rated for the exact weights a trout beginner fishes, at a price that makes the budget alternatives hard to argue for.
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Diameter | 3.4" |
| Line weights | 3-5 wt |
| Weight | 5.6 oz |
| Drag | Sealed carbon-to-stainless disc |
| Construction | Die-cast with powder-coat finish |
| Retrieve | Converts to left- or right-hand |
A trout reel has one job most of the time — hold line — and one job occasionally, which is to apply smooth pressure to a fish that will not stop. The Clearwater II does both: 3.4 inches across, rated 3-5 weight, 5.6 oz, with a sealed carbon-to-stainless disc drag.
Sealed is the word that matters. An unsealed drag lets in the fine grit that comes with wading gravel, and gritty drags become jerky drags, which is how light tippet breaks. Sealing it is normally something you pay a lot more for.
It is die-cast rather than machined from bar stock, so it is a reel that dents rather than scratches. For a first reel that is the right compromise to accept.
What we like
- A sealed drag at this price is the headline — grit and water stay out
- Large arbor picks line up faster, which matters when a fish runs at you
- Converts hands without tools or a trip to a shop
What you give up
- Die-cast rather than machined, so it will dent where a machined reel would scratch
- No spare spool in the box
| Criterion | Score / 10 |
|---|---|
| Drag | 9 |
| Build | 8 |
| Line capacity | 8 |
| Weight | 8 |
| Value | 9 |
| Overall | 8.6 |
2. Best Under $150
Piscifun Sword Fly Reel
A machined aluminum body for roughly what a die-cast reel costs, with a mid arbor as the compromise.
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Construction | CNC-machined aluminum alloy body |
| Arbor | Mid arbor |
| Sizes | 3/4 through 9/10 wt |
| Finishes | Multiple, including black, gunmetal and space gray |
Piscifun's Sword is the reel that makes the budget tier interesting: a CNC-machined aluminum alloy body rather than the die-cast construction almost everything else at this price uses. Machined bodies hold tolerances better and scratch where die-cast dents, and the Sword comes in sizes from 3/4 up to 9/10.
The compromise is the arbor. A mid-arbor spool has a smaller center, so you retrieve less line per turn and the line sits in tighter coils. In warm weather that is barely noticeable. In cold weather, when fly line is stiff anyway, tight coils are the difference between line lying flat and line tangling round your boots.
Published drag specification is limited, so we will say only what we can stand behind: it is a disc drag, it is adequate for trout, and we have no basis for claiming more than that.
What we like
- CNC-machined from aluminum rather than die-cast — unusual at this price, and it means dings scratch instead of deforming
- Covers 3/4 up to 9/10, so a second reel for a heavier rod is the same purchase
- Light enough not to unbalance an entry 5-weight
What you give up
- Mid arbor rather than large arbor, so line pick-up is slower and the line takes a tighter coil memory
- Published drag detail is thin — treat it as adequate for trout and no more
| Criterion | Score / 10 |
|---|---|
| Drag | 7 |
| Build | 8 |
| Line capacity | 7 |
| Weight | 8 |
| Value | 10 |
| Overall | 7.9 |
3. Best Upgrade Pick
Redington Behemoth Fly Reel
An enormous amount of drag and a lifetime warranty for the money — genuinely the pick if you expect to fish an 8-weight one day, and overkill if you do not.
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Sizes | 4/5, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12 wt |
| Drag | Carbon fiber with specialized carbon braking discs, capped (not sealed) |
| Construction | Die-cast, interlocking large-arbor spool |
| Colors | Black, gunmetal, O.D. green |
| Supplied with | Nylon reel case |
| Warranty | Lifetime |
The Behemoth's reputation is built on one number nobody publishes for trout reels: maximum drag. It uses a carbon-fiber drag with specialized carbon braking discs and a die-cast, interlocking large-arbor spool, and it stops fish that have no business being stopped by a reel at this price.
For a beginner fishing trout, that is mostly beside the point. A 5-weight with 5X tippet breaks long before any drag setting matters. What is relevant is the lifetime warranty, the stiff spool, and the fact that the 7/8 size is the obvious reel to buy later if you ever go after bass, pike or saltwater — so buying into the family can make sense.
The honest caveats are weight and sealing. It is heavier than the Clearwater II, and the drag is capped rather than sealed, so a gravel-bar dunking is not a non-event.
What we like
- The strongest drag in its price class by a wide margin — it is the reel people reuse on an 8-weight later
- Lifetime warranty
- Interlocking large-arbor spool design is noticeably stiff for a die-cast reel
What you give up
- Capped, not sealed — grit can still reach the drag stack
- Heavier than the Clearwater II, which you feel on a 5-weight all day
- Drag power is irrelevant for trout, so you are paying for capability you will not use
| Criterion | Score / 10 |
|---|---|
| Drag | 10 |
| Build | 8 |
| Line capacity | 9 |
| Weight | 6 |
| Value | 9 |
| Overall | 8.4 |
4. Best Value
Scientific Anglers Frequency Trout
If one component on a cheap combo is worth replacing first, it is the line, and this is the line we would replace it with.
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Taper | Infinity-style belly, quarter-size heavy |
| Head length (WF-5-F) | 34.0 ft |
| Total length (WF-5-F) | 85.0 ft |
| Head weight (WF-5-F) | 140 gr |
| Core | Braided multifilament |
| Coating | AST slickness treatment |
| Loops | Welded |
A fly rod does not cast a fly. It casts a line, and the fly goes along for the ride. That one fact is why a good line on a cheap rod outperforms a cheap line on a good rod, and almost nobody explains it to beginners.
The Frequency Trout is built on an Infinity-style belly taper with slightly longer front and rear tapers and a quarter-size-heavy profile. In plain terms: there is a little more mass than the nominal weight, which loads a rod with less line out of the tip. If you are new and your loop is collapsing because you cannot feel the rod bend, that extra quarter size is the most direct fix available.
The WF-5-F has a 34-foot head, 85 feet of total length and a 140-grain head weight on a braided multifilament core, with AST slickness treatment and welded loops at both ends. The welded front loop matters practically: you can loop-to-loop a new leader on in ten seconds, rather than learning a nail knot in the rain.
What we like
- A quarter-size heavy head loads a rod a beginner is under-loading — it makes a stiff rod feel easier
- Welded loops mean no nail knot between line and leader
- AST coating keeps the line shooting through the guides instead of sticking
- Braided multifilament core performs in cold to moderate water temperatures
What you give up
- The quarter-size-heavy profile is slightly less delicate than a true-to-weight line on very flat water
- Costs a meaningful fraction of a budget combo
| Criterion | Score / 10 |
|---|---|
| Turnover | 9 |
| Slickness | 9 |
| Ease for beginners | 9 |
| Durability | 8 |
| Value | 8 |
| Overall | 8.7 |
Step 1 — Decide whether you need one
If you bought a combo, the replacement order is: fly line first by a wide margin, then leaders and tippet, then the rod, then the reel. Upgrading the reel first is the most common mis-step in the sport.
Replace the reel when the drag feels stepped rather than smooth as you pull line against it, when the spool wobbles or binds, or when it is a plastic-framed reel that has cracked. Otherwise, buy a line.
Step 2 — Match the size to the rod
Find the reel's published line-weight range and check your rod's weight sits inside it. A 9-foot 5-weight wants a 3-5 wt or 5/6 class reel, typically labeled size II. Do not trust the size number alone — Roman numerals and slash pairs are brand conventions, not standards.
Fly reel size chart maps the labels onto rod weights and backing capacity.
Step 3 — Prefer a sealed drag
This is the feature worth paying for, and not for the reason the packaging implies. Drag power is near-irrelevant for trout on 5X tippet. Drag sealing keeps the fine grit from wading gravel out of the drag stack, and a gritty drag is a jerky drag — which is how light tippet actually breaks.
| Type | In practice |
|---|---|
| Sealed | Worth paying for. Survives gravel and dunkings |
| Capped | Fine in clean water; rinse after a sandy day |
| Open | Becomes stepped over a season or two |
Step 4 — Prefer large arbor, mind the weight
A large arbor picks up more line per turn and — more usefully — lets the line coil loosely, which matters in cold weather when stiff line in tight coils tangles. Worth having at the same price; not worth a big premium. Large arbor versus mid arbor.
Then check the weight. An entry 5-weight rod is around 3.7 to 4.5 oz; a reel much over 6 oz starts to feel butt-heavy, and you notice it over a six-hour day.
Step 5 — Check it converts retrieve hands
Almost all modern reels switch between left- and right-hand retrieve without tools, but confirm it. Which hand to use is genuinely personal: most right-handed anglers cast with the right hand and reel with the left, so they never have to swap hands with a fish on. If you have come from spinning gear you may be used to the opposite.
Three things you can ignore
- Maximum drag figures. Not the limiting factor on trout tippet, and frequently not published anyway.
- Spare spools. A nice idea you will almost certainly never use as a beginner. Buy a second reel later if you genuinely need two lines.
- Color and finish. Pick one you like. It has no effect on anything else.
Where this lands
For a trout beginner buying a standalone reel: a sealed-drag large-arbor reel in the 3-5 weight class, which is the Orvis Clearwater Large Arbor II. On a tighter budget, the machined Piscifun Sword with an unsealed drag and a more diligent rinsing habit.
Then put the right amount of backing on it, and a weight-forward floating line on top of that.
Questions people actually ask
How do I choose a fly fishing reel?
In five steps: decide whether you actually need one (on a combo, the line is the better upgrade), match the reel's published line-weight range to your rod, prefer a sealed drag for grit resistance rather than drag power, prefer a large arbor and watch the weight, and confirm it converts between left and right-hand retrieve.
What should I look for in a beginner fly reel?
A published line-weight range that includes your rod's weight, a sealed or at least capped drag, a large arbor, and a weight that balances your rod — under about 6 oz for an entry 5-weight. Maximum drag figures, spare spools and finish are all things you can safely ignore for a first reel.
Does an expensive fly reel catch more fish?
On river trout, essentially no. The reel's everyday job is holding line, and on 5X tippet the tippet fails before drag power matters. Where an expensive reel earns its money is on big fish in open water, in saltwater, and in grit resistance over years — none of which describes a first season on a trout stream.
Which hand should I reel with?
Most right-handed fly anglers cast with the right hand and reel with the left, so they never have to swap hands while a fish is on. If you have come from spinning gear you may find the opposite more natural. Nearly all modern fly reels convert between the two without tools, so it is a preference rather than a purchase decision.
Do I need a spare spool for my fly reel?
Almost certainly not as a beginner. A spare spool lets you swap between, say, a floating and a sinking line without carrying a second reel, which is a problem you will not have for a while. If you later genuinely need two lines, a second complete reel is often cheaper and more convenient than a spare spool.
Read next

Best Beginner Reel
Best Fly Reels for Beginners
Beginner fly reels ranked on drag sealing rather than drag power — and whether you need one at all.

Fly Reels
Fly Reel Size Chart
Reel sizes and brand labels mapped onto rod weight and backing capacity, in one table.

Fly Reels
Does Fly Reel Size Matter?
Reel size matters for fit and balance, not performance. What the number actually changes.

Fly Reels
Fly Reel Backing: How Much Do You Need?
What backing is, how much to use, and why it matters on every cast rather than only on big fish.

Fly Reels
Large Arbor vs Mid Arbor Fly Reels
What arbor size changes, why line memory matters more than retrieve speed, and when mid arbor is fine.

Best Beginner Line
Best Fly Lines for Beginners
The line is what you cast, so it is the first upgrade worth making. Two picks, and the quarter-size-heavy trick.